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"Introduction to Physical Oceanography Robert H. Stewart Department of Oceanography Texas A & M University Copyright 2006 September 2006 Edition ii Contents Preface iii 1 A Voyage of Discovery 1.1 Physics of the Ocean 1.2 Goals 1.3 Organization 1.4 The Big Picture 1.5 Further Reading 2 The Historical Setting 2.1 Definitions 2.2 Eras of Oceanographic Exploration 2.3 Milestones in the Understanding of the Ocean 2.4 Evolution of Some Theoretical Ideas 2.5 The Role of Observations in Oceanography 2.6 Important Concepts 3 The Physical Setting 3.1 Ocean and Seas 3.2 Dimensions of the Ocean 3.3 Sea-Floor Features 3.4 Measuring the Depth of the Ocean 3.5 Sea Floor Charts and Data Sets 3.6 Sound in the Ocean 3.7 Important Concepts 4 Atmospheric Influences 9 4.1 The Earth in Space 4.2 Atmospheric Wind Systems 4.3 The Planetary Boundary Layer 4.4 Measurement of Wind 4.5 Calculations of Wind 4.6 Wind Stress 4.7 Important Concepts in 5 The Oceanic Heat Budget 51 5.1 The Oceanic Heat Budget 5.2 Heat-Budget Terms 5.3 Direct Calculation of Fluxes 5.4 Indirect Calculation of Fluxes: Bulk Formulas 5.5 Global Data Sets for Fluxes 5.6 Geographic Distribution of Terms 5.7 Meridional Heat Transport 5.8 Variations in Solar Constant 5.9 Important Concepts 6 Temperature, Salinity, and Density 3 6.1 Definition of Salinity 6.2 Definition of Temperature 6.3 Geographical Distribution 6.4 The Oceanic Mixed Layer and Thermocline 6.5 Density 6.6 Measurement of Temperature 6.7 Measurement of Conductivity or Salinity 6.8 Measurement of Pressure 6.9 Temperature and Salinity with Depth 6.10 Light in the Ocean and Absorption of Light 6.11 Important Concepts 7 The Equations of Motion 3 7.1 Dominant Forces for Ocean Dynamics 7.2 Coordinate System 7.3 Types of Flow in the Ocean 7.4 Conservation of Mass and Salt 7.5 The Total Derivative (D Dt) 7.6 Momentum Equation 7.7 Conservation of Mass: The Continuity Equation tIl l 7.8 Solutions to the Equations of Motion 7.9 Important Concepts 8 Equations of Motion with Viscosity 5 8.1 The Influence of Viscosity 8.2 Turbulence 8.3 Calculation of Reynolds Stress : 8.4 Mixing in the Ocean 8.5 Stability 8.6 Important Concepts" Ключевые слова: references, spilling breaker, speed, tide-generating potential, relative, cm, geophysical, satellite, equation, surface, fluid, oceanography, gulf, ekman pumping, inertial oscillation, dp, restoring force, mass, salinity, equatorial, cartesian coordinate, velocity, san diego, meridional-overturning circulation, specific humidity, numerical, scale, tidal force, sin, time, weddell sea, physics, society, vernal equinox, atlantic, mid-ocean ridge, water, wind-driven circulation, global, pacific, wa, layer, biological chemical, vapor condenses, stress tensor, earth, el, height, oceanic, ha, produce, coriolis parameter, tidal, gravitational attraction, osborne reynolds, river inflow, geopotential, sea surface, transport, meridional circulation, intergovernmental panel, distance, submarine canyon, mid-atlantic ridge, turbulence, baroclinic instability, southern oscillation, day, acoustical society, inverse method, process, model, science, wind, measurement, frequency, climate, lagrangian measurements, ship, logarithmic profile, taylor-proudman theorem, geostrophic currents, change, resonant sloshing, eos transactions, abyssal circulation, horizontal, measure, european centre, accuracy, geocentric coordinate, distribution, external force, error, depth, vertical, northern hemisphere, constant, calculated, joint panel, drake passage, dominant force, mixed vertically, journal, atmosphere, apel, nino, concepts, small, north, scripps institution, meteorological agency, region, boundary, nina, temperature, bad news, dx dy, tidal forcing, smith, weather, sv, sea, data, sea-bird electronics, surf zone, year, heat, bering sea, point, low-flying aircraft, calculate, influence, fourier transform, dx dp, tide, meter, chapter, southern acc, function, eddy, cape hatteras, area, theoretical ideas, flux, result, current, stress, dead plant, topographic steering, southern hemisphere, oceanographic tables, national centers, launched, coast, north atlantic, fourier series, coastal zone, sea floor, far-reaching large-scale, level, wave, suns perigee, force, greatly exaggerated, ocean, doppler shift, mediterranean sea, inverted barometer, stream, interpolating device, nasa langley, physical, flow, clear, direction, san francisco, basin, heated, mixing, circulation, pressure, wavlength, leonhard euler, set, static stability, deep, latitude, historical setting, instrument, tanh fcrf, subsurface float, measured, geostrophic, tidal potential, neutral stability, press, bulk formula, antarctic circumpolar, continental shelf, term, motion, nature, atmospheric, lead, density, theory, observation, ekman, infrared radiation, vorticity, argo float, large