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" DESCRIPTIVE PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY M.P.M. TREDY Formerly Professor and Head of the Department of Fisheries Oceanography University of Agricultural Sciences College of Fisheries, Mangalore, India A.A. BALKEMA Publishers LISSE ABINGDON TEXTON (PA) TOKYO Copyright Reserved © 2001 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Published by: A.A. Balkema, a member of Swets & Zeitlinger Publishers www.balkema.nl and www.szp.swets.nl ISBN 90 5410 7065 Printed in India Preface This book on Descriptive Physical Oceanography contains the substance of courses on Physical Oceanography; Applied Oceanography; Oceanographic Methods; Coastal Oceanography and Oceanic Circulation taught by me and my colleagues for about thirty years in the Department of Fisheries Oceanography at the College of Fisheries, Mangalore, University of Agricultural Sciences, Bangalore to graduate, post-graduate and Ph.D. students specializing in Oceanography and Fisheries Oceanography. The subject matter of this book covers major part of the syllabus of courses such as Physical Oceanography, Oceanographic Instruments, Waves and Tides, Coastal Oceanography and Ocean Circulation prescribed for postgraduate students specializing in Physical Oceanography in other Universities. For students specializing in Biological, Chemical and Geological Oceanography, this book will give sufficient background information on Physical Oceanography. In addition to my personal knowledge and experience in teaching and research on some aspects of Physical Oceanography, I have relied very much on the results of research of others in the world to present a good and up-to-date coverage of the subject. I have consulted several texts and journals to prepare the material for this book. I therefore gratefully acknowledge my indebtedness to the many oceanographers whose work I have consulted in texts and journals. Particularly, I wish to express my grateful thanks to the Director, Bedford Institute of Oceanography; Director, Scripps Institution of Oceanography; Director, Lamont-Doherty Earth Observatory of Columbia University; Director, Institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Deacon Laboratory (Southampton Oceanographic Centre); Director, Proudman Oceanographic Laboratory; Director, Federal Maritime and Hydrographic Agency; Director, P.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology; Director, Ocean Research Institute, the University of Tokyo; Director, National Institute of Oceanography, Dona Paula, Goa; and the Director, Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute, Cochin for sending the latest information, annual reports, brochures and photographs of their Institutes to me to include in my book in the Chapter on Important Oceanographic Research Institutes in the World. I convey my sincere thanks to all who have kindly permitted figures and tables from their published work to be reproduced. I hope this book will be very useful to "' Ключевые слова: red arc, western, downward atmospheric, foxe basin, subtropical anti-cyclone, winter, gravitational attraction, sea breeze, ninetyeast ridge, eurasian basin, indian ocean, horizontal component, entire stretch, collected, van niekerk, monsoon, t-s diagram, physical resources, physical, fond, water mass, cape comorin, university, ice, oceanogr, knudsens pipette, light, federal maritime, wave, anticlockwise gyre, lawrence, deep water, midatlantic ridge, todays standard, study, tide, central, water, form, day, somali jet, acoust soc, crozet basin, sea water, energy, sea farming, descriptive, london, helpful suggestion, sound, york, emerged, mar, secchi disk, transpacific hydrographic, ship, river, echo sounder, arabian, oceanography, india, eastern, protective ring, kerguelen plateau, circulation, ross seas, power, season, flow, equator, barents sea, height, nino, descriptive physical, arctic, cape hatteras, sri lanka, speed, inst, atlantic, mid-atlantic ridge, white cap, continental shelf, deep, bourdon tube, reddy, instrument, peripheral sea, south, direction, adjacent sea, north atlantic, distribution, der oberflache, physical oceanography, sci ind, observed, graduate post-graduate, soviet union, dissolved solid, velocity, zone, sci, high, vertical profile, cape delgado, pacific ocean, electric generator, geophys, generally, source, fish, large, scotia arc, descriptive physical oceanography, tributary sea, atlantic-antarctic basin, hydrographic condition, solar emission, increase, anti-clockwise gyre, west, coast, grand bank, pressure, restoring force, funnel shaped, institute, northern, continental margin, canadian basin, atlantic ocean, lomonosov ridge, gimbal housing, wind, le, atlantic-indian basin, maximum, british isles, press, carlsberg ridge, gulf, dead sea, longshore component, hydrographic surveying, southern, decrease, chloride content, indian, latitude, coast india, spark plug, ocean, east, marine, cape agulhas, antarctic, bering sea, ha, south-west, west coast, savu sea, transport, annual budget, salinity, type, north-east, year, pacific, physical properties, soc, period, marginal sea, area, density, tidal, earth, arabian sea, clockwise gyre, time, wa, saudi arabia, surface water, anti-cyclonic gyre, sargasso sea, variation, malay peninsula, broadly grouped, remote sensing, portable salinometer, tide-generating force, temperature, thermal conductivity, earths crust, region, potential drug, von arx, argentine basin, current, mass, depth, basin, equatorial, sea, midoceanic ridge, deep sea, upwelling, range, rao, oceanographic, wave height, layer, bay, mandapam camp, mariana trench, nova scotia, coastal, satisfactory explanation, unit, surface, north